Dining Like a Boss: Lunch in a Ryotei

A ryotei is a high class, luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant that used to cater to the heads of powerful clans in the Edo Period and government officials. It is also called "caretaker tearooms" because clan members usually bring their guests in these establishments for a private meeting. While geishas used to accompany customers in the past, the ryotei eventually became just a restaurant in the recent decades. Geishas might have disappeared in the scene but hospitable serving ladies called nakai still make sure that customers are well-attended during their stay. All the nakais are under the okami or the lady of the house who is usually the wife of the owner. A ryotei usually serves a multi-course traditional Japanese meals called kaiseki. It is a full course meal that is prepared only by people who have garnered years of expertise in preparing this food. 

The interior of the tatami room

During my recent trip to Kawagoe, I decided to try dining in one of these so-called "luxurious" restaurants and have a taste of the "good life" that former powerful feudal lords used to experience. (See this post to read about my day trip in Kawagoe). I decided to have lunch in Kou Sushi, a ryotei that boasts more than 100 years of expertise in preparing and serving kaiseki, specializing specifically on sushi. 

Kou Sushi first opened in 1901. It opened with only a few counter seats. At present, they have a 10-seater counter that is reminiscent of its humble beginnings. The place also has private rooms where families and friends can gather for special occasions. These rooms have a wonderful view of the finely sculpted Japanese garden. It also has an ordinary tatami room with regular tables and chairs. 

As soon as I entered the place, I was warmly welcomed by a nakai standing on the genkan. I removed my shoes, placed it on the racks and put on a clean pair of slippers. The nakai led me to the tatami room with regular chairs and tables. I asked if they had available private rooms but the nakai told me that this is the only room available for lunch. I arrived around 12nn and was lucky because I was the first one in the room. I got to pick the nicest table in the room, a four-seater table overlooking the Japanese garden all to myself. 

This ryotei offers very cheap lunch menus. They have soba and tempura sets for only Y1,700. I ordered the sushi set, which costs Y2,300. I originally wanted to order the sashimi set I saw on their website but the nakai that they only offer it during weekends. For my sushi set, I was asked to pick two side dishes and a dessert. I chose tempura and a pork dish for my side dishes and a kind of sweets made of sweet potato that is famous in Kawagoe. A beverage is also included in the meal. You can choose from beer, black tea or orange juice. 

the dessert made of sweet potato

After 15-20 minutes of waiting, my food finally arrived and it is so much worth the wait. The fishes on the sushi are super fresh; the pork was super tender the fat was melting in my mouth; and the tempura was crispy on the outside but very soft and tender inside. After I finished my meal, the nakai served my dessert. I requested for a cup of black tea, which she generously served me. Honestly, I am not a fan of sweet potatoes but this dessert was so good I finished it after only a few scoops!

Dining in a ryotei is an experience that is not meant to be missed by people traveling in Japan, not only for its excellent food, but also for the kind of service it offers. The staff are very warm and hospitable. Now that I have tried what it is like dining in a ryotei and after knowing that it won't really cost you an arm and a leg (though some exclusive ones would probably do!), I would definitely do it again and again!

See this post for the Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe.