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| Article was originally published in the May issue of the Filipino-Japanese Journal. |
Louis
Vuitton was founded on the the principles of French style, rooted not only in
recognizing the beauty of an object but also taking into careful consideration
its functionality as well as mobility. Louis Vuitton’s “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez”,
curated by Olivier Saillard, tells the journey of the brand from manufacturing
travel trunks from 1854 until today through the display of its most noteworthy
pieces.
From Trunks to
Something Else
The exhibit
is composed of ten parts featuring different milestones in the brand’s manufacturing
and design history. A large painting of Louis Vuitton, founding father of the
brand, welcomes the visitors at the entrance of the exhibit.
The Trunk of 1906. The first part
displays different trunks – flat trunks, cabin trunks, car trunks and aero
trunks – that made the brand one of the most sought-after travel bag makers of
all time. Each one specifically tailored according to the mode of transportation
where they would be used. Though different in designs, the trunks showcase signature
Louis Vuitton elements such as canvas motifs, locks, and ribbon tufting.
Wood. Armed with knowledge of
woodworking, Louis made wood one of the most important materials of his trunks.
After he left his hometown, Anchay, in 1835, he was hired as a box maker-slash-packer-apprentice
of Romain Marechal, whose main work involved manufacturing boxes and crates to
pack different objects. After opening the company in 1854, Louis eventually
perfected the flat trunk, an exemplary model of strength and lightness. Louis
used poplar to assemble the inner frame, beech for reinforcement strips and
camphor trees for the interior to keep pests away. This part of the exhibit shows
not only carefully assembled woodwork but also one of the signature
characteristics of his bags – the use of canvass.
Classic Trunks. After perfecting the
flat trunk, the brand continued to experiment and discover new designs. This
part of the exhibit shows the new types of trunks that the brand invented such
as wardrobe trunks, mail trunks, hat trunks, low and high trunks, and the
double-top trunks that were born out of the growing needs of the clientele. Louis
Vuitton then became known as a brand that “safely packs the most fragile
things” without losing a sense of fashion and style.
The Invention of Travel. Louis Vuitton
became part of the historical Croisiere
Noire, an anthropological and technological mission exploring Algeria, Mali
and Congo between 1924 and 1925. The head of mission, Andre Citrogen,
specifically ordered Louis Vuitton trunks that would fit the circumstances of
the travel such as different climates and modes of transportation as well as
the daily necessities of the group such as toiletries and tea sets. This section
shows the types of trunks that were used in that trip as well as others that
eventually emerged when other modes of transportation such as ships became more
common. Trunks were then tailored for sea travel. The rise of yachting during
this period also sparked the creation of the Steamer Bag, a precursor of the
modern gym bag.
Heures D’Absence. Gaston-Louis, grandson
of Louis, enjoyed writing as well as reading books. His interest in books inspired
the creation of secretary trunks, library trunks, writing desks and mobile
offices that were showcased in this part of the exhibit.
The Painting Trunk. In 1927, a prominent
art dealer named Rene Gimpel, ordered a trunk that would secure his paintings
as he transported them between places where he did business like Paris, London
and New York. This part exhibits these oversized specialty trunks that could
contain very fragile frames.
Curio Trunks. This part features several
trunks, chests and boxes of the finest kind collected by Gaston-Louis from the 1900s.
A preserved version of the questionnaire he sent to those who could possibly buy
an old trunk for him contained very specific inquiries about dimensions,
materials and locks of trunks.
Beauty of Fashion. In the 1920s and 30s,
Louis Vuitton’s handheld bags rose to popularity. Some of the pieces displayed were
used, owned or related in some way to some famous celebrities like Greta Garbo,
Katharine Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor. This part also plays videos of runway
shows showcasing Louis Vuitton’s clothing line, which started in 1997 and was designed
by Marc Jacobs.
Music Room. As Louis Vuitton became well-respected
for its craft, more and more clients asked the brand to customize special bags
for very own personal purposes. Some of which are displayed in this section
such as trunks used to pack cigars, musical instruments like violins and
guitars, conductor’s batons, and vinyl records.
Inspirational Japan. Japan has
significantly influenced the designs of Louis Vuitton through the years.
Gaston-Louis was a known collecter of tsuba,
the decorated guards found at the base of the grip of a Japanese weapon like swords
while his father Georges was fascinated with Japanese motifs that were said to
have influenced the monogram. In this exhibition, bags with designs born
through collaboration with Japanese artists lik Takashi Murakami, Yayoi Kusama,
and Rei Kawakubo are displayed.
From then
til now, Louis Vuitton continues to fly, sail, and travel, not only as a
companion to any fashionable jetsetter, but also as a brand that soars above,
triumphs over and traverses the changing of the times. Louis Vuitton’s “Volez,
Vougez, Voyagez” exhibition runs from April 23- June 19 in Kojimachi,
Chiyoda-ku. Admission is free but booking is required in advance through the
event’s webpage.
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