Dining Like a Boss: Lunch in a Ryotei

A ryotei is a high class, luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant that used to cater to the heads of powerful clans in the Edo Period and government officials. It is also called "caretaker tearooms" because clan members usually bring their guests in these establishments for a private meeting. While geishas used to accompany customers in the past, the ryotei eventually became just a restaurant in the recent decades. Geishas might have disappeared in the scene but hospitable serving ladies called nakai still make sure that customers are well-attended during their stay. All the nakais are under the okami or the lady of the house who is usually the wife of the owner. A ryotei usually serves a multi-course traditional Japanese meals called kaiseki. It is a full course meal that is prepared only by people who have garnered years of expertise in preparing this food. 

The interior of the tatami room

During my recent trip to Kawagoe, I decided to try dining in one of these so-called "luxurious" restaurants and have a taste of the "good life" that former powerful feudal lords used to experience. (See this post to read about my day trip in Kawagoe). I decided to have lunch in Kou Sushi, a ryotei that boasts more than 100 years of expertise in preparing and serving kaiseki, specializing specifically on sushi. 

Kou Sushi first opened in 1901. It opened with only a few counter seats. At present, they have a 10-seater counter that is reminiscent of its humble beginnings. The place also has private rooms where families and friends can gather for special occasions. These rooms have a wonderful view of the finely sculpted Japanese garden. It also has an ordinary tatami room with regular tables and chairs. 

As soon as I entered the place, I was warmly welcomed by a nakai standing on the genkan. I removed my shoes, placed it on the racks and put on a clean pair of slippers. The nakai led me to the tatami room with regular chairs and tables. I asked if they had available private rooms but the nakai told me that this is the only room available for lunch. I arrived around 12nn and was lucky because I was the first one in the room. I got to pick the nicest table in the room, a four-seater table overlooking the Japanese garden all to myself. 

This ryotei offers very cheap lunch menus. They have soba and tempura sets for only Y1,700. I ordered the sushi set, which costs Y2,300. I originally wanted to order the sashimi set I saw on their website but the nakai that they only offer it during weekends. For my sushi set, I was asked to pick two side dishes and a dessert. I chose tempura and a pork dish for my side dishes and a kind of sweets made of sweet potato that is famous in Kawagoe. A beverage is also included in the meal. You can choose from beer, black tea or orange juice. 

the dessert made of sweet potato

After 15-20 minutes of waiting, my food finally arrived and it is so much worth the wait. The fishes on the sushi are super fresh; the pork was super tender the fat was melting in my mouth; and the tempura was crispy on the outside but very soft and tender inside. After I finished my meal, the nakai served my dessert. I requested for a cup of black tea, which she generously served me. Honestly, I am not a fan of sweet potatoes but this dessert was so good I finished it after only a few scoops!

Dining in a ryotei is an experience that is not meant to be missed by people traveling in Japan, not only for its excellent food, but also for the kind of service it offers. The staff are very warm and hospitable. Now that I have tried what it is like dining in a ryotei and after knowing that it won't really cost you an arm and a leg (though some exclusive ones would probably do!), I would definitely do it again and again!

See this post for the Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe.

Asian Dishes at Roppongi Hills: Green Asia

Nasi Goreng with Red Curry

If you're up for Asian dishes like Thai curry, Nasi Goreng or Tom Yum, this is a perfect place for lunch. Situated on Hill Side B1 of Roppongi Hills, this place not only serves good food but also provides a good view of the Tokyo Tower. The veranda is also open if you want to feel the warm Summer breeze while consuming your curry. Average cost of food is Y2,000 but they also have equally tasty lunch menus that is a little more affordable. 

A good view of the Tokyo Tower from Green Asia

A Geek's Afternoon Walk at Nakano Broadway

Today, I decided to go for a walk at Nakano Broadway, a four-story building outside the South Exit of Nakano Station - a so-called haven for geeks of all ages and interests like me. Here you can find shops selling different kinds of goods that cater to different fan bases and collector groups. There are those selling anime and manga goods, from figurines to very old collectible cards; idol goods such photos, concert goods, CDs/DVDs, and other memorabilia; manga, books and magazines, both new and secondhand; clothing stores selling costumes for cosplay or everyday street wear; vintage shops selling dolls, accessories and collectibles; and other specialty stores catering to specific interests like train model kits, create-your-own-doll-kits, and vintage samurai film posters from the 1960s.

Entrance to an otaku wonderland

Akihabara is the first place that pops into mind when the word anime is mentioned. Indeed, Akihabara is home to a lot of specialty stores catering to different otaku subcultures. However, if you don't want to get lost in that bigger world called Akihabara, you can just wander around Nakano Broadway (I warn you, it is a jungle in itself!). As expected, you can spot an anime and manga shop after every two shops, sometimes, they are right next to each other you don't know where to go first! I must admit I got so overwhelmed I din't get to take a lot of photos! 

A cosplay shop

Of course when we talk about anime, along comes with it is cosplay. There are specialty shops in Nakano Broadway that sells not only costumes but also accessories. So if you are into cosplay and you want to add amazing details to your costume, you might want to drop by in these shops and purchase your much-needed sunglasses, pin, hair accessories and other important pieces to complete your ensemble.

Gacha gacha land

Dragon Ball Z gacha gacha

I am addicted to gacha gacha machines, I can't help myself from trying it once I saw one. When I passed by this shop, I was so excited I didn't know what to try until I found my pick at the bottom of the row. The last time I tried gacha gacha (and yes, it was also a Dragon Ball Z gacha gacha), I spent thousands of yen because I couldn't get Vegeta's 3D sticker! So I dropped two Y100 coins into the machine and waited for my toy to come out but it didn't! I didn't know if the machine was broken or what but I feel too lazy to talk to the guy in Japanese and tell him that his machine ate my precious Y200 and there were a lot of people too asking him questions. So I just let it pass and I lost Y200 and a precious chance to get a DBZ memorabilia! Maybe it's also a good thing because the heavens thought that I might overspend again if I didn't get Vegeta the first try.

Baseball goods

Create-your-own-doll Shop

I also found a store that sells baseball memorabilia and oh boy, these items are so precious it will really make you spend Y60,000 for a signed ball. Another interesting shop sells different toy body parts that you can use to create your own doll. A head or a torso costs around Y1600.

A table full of V6 goods

I also went inside some shops that sell idol goods but I didn't find anything good to purchase but I was so happy to find this table especially dedicated for V6! The shop is even playing one of their old concerts and there was a message on top of the TV greeting Morita Go a happy birthday! When I went to another shop, there was also another girl who was so engrossed in selecting nice photos of Okada Junichi, I wasn't able to look at it! 

sushi shop outside Nakano Broadway

Bar Zingaro in Nakano Broadway

There are also a lot of restaurants inside Nakano Broadway, which I must say I was surprised to find because I thought that this building is all for anime and manga goods. I decided to have an early dinner at one of the sushi places right outside Nakano Broadway. You can find it at the end of the long stretch of shops right before you enter the main building.

One cafe that is definitely worth a visit is Bar Zingaro, a cafe on the second floor of the building. This cafe was produced by the company Fuglen togethr with contemporary Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, who recently had his exhibit at Mori at Museum. See my post here. Takashi Murakami opened Bar Zingaro as the latest addition to the Zingaro Galleries, a chain of contemporary art galleries that he is running in Nakano Broadway such as Kaikai, Hidari, Ox and Pixiv.

If you are into more artsy fartsy stuff, you can have your caricature drawn by a young artist outside Nakano Station. She looked so happy when she was drawing this other girl. 

A small alley outside Nakano Broadway

A young caricature artist outside Nakano Station

However, if you are feeling a little adventurous, you can explore the smaller alleys around Nakano Broadway that can lead you to more interesting and quainter cafes and restaurants that are off the beaten path.

Delicious looking bread at Paul Saint-Germaine

You can also explore the other side of the station by passing under the train tracks and going to the North Exit side. There are other shops and restaurants around that area. Not very far from the station is Paul Saint-Germaine, a bakery that sells fresh and delicious bread. Even though I just had an early dinner, I bought a few pieces of bread when I saw the bakery. I guess, that is how good the bread looks like. It's so inviting! So whether you're planning to buy something or just want to look around and amuse yourself with what weird things people get crazy about, then going to Nakano Broadway for an afternoon walk is a good idea to kill time.

Gonpachi: Kill Bill Restaurant

Gonpachi or more popularly referred to as the "Kill Bill Restaurant" is visited by thousands of tourists and locals alike not only for its ambiance but also for its good food. Kill Bill is a Hollywood movie starred by Uma Thurman in 2003. A sequal, Kill Bill Volume 2 was released in 2004. Although the iconic fight scene between The Bride (Uma Thurman) and Yubari Gogo (Chiaki Kuriyama) was not exactly shot in this location, this restaurant inspired the setting for that particular scene.

The restaurant is found in Azabu Juban, a high end district in Tokyo where mostly expats live.To go to Gonpachi, you can take either the Oedo Line or Hibiya Line to Roppongi Station. Take Exit A2. You will find Meidi-Ya, a large supermarket, outside the exit. Go down the road towards Roppongi Hills and walk for around 8 minutes. Gonpachi is found in an intersection, a block away from Roppongi Hills.

Outside the restaurant at night

I have to say though that the exterior of the restaurant looks more badass without the glaring lights around the trees. If you want to take good photos outside, better visit earlier when the lights are still turned off. If it's winter, it gets dark in Tokyo as early as 4pm. 

The interior of the restaurant will not disappoint you thought. It exudes an authentic Japanese traditional feel to it. This restaurant is classified as an izakaya, meaning a local Japanese bar, so it serves not only traditional Japanese food but alcohol as well.

For bigger groups of people, there are tatami rooms on the second floor of the restaurant that can be reserved for special occasions. Take note that you have to remover your shoes when entering the tatami room. There are also large taiko drums on the second floor, which make me wonder whether these drums are actually used for live performances or are just placed there for aesthetic purposes. The restaurant also plays traditional Japanese music that gives an additional authentic Japanese feel to the place. You'll feel like The Bride in her yellow track suit is going to come out any minute with her sword.

A traditional Japanese set meal for Y3,500.

Prices might hike a little during dinner time but for lunch, the restaurant offers affordable set meals. Lunch menus are served until 3pm. Prices of the set meals range from Y1,500 to Y3,500. We ordered the 7-course meal and shared it. At first, my friend and I thought that the food was quite little for sharing but it was just right! It doesn't look much but once you start eating it, it does fill you.

Quentin Tarantino visited the restaurant in 2003.

At the entrance of the restaurant, there is a shelf that shows Kill Bill memorabilia. It even displays a photo of Kill Bill's director, Quentin Tarantino when he visited the restaurant Circa 2003.

Places to Visit in Tokyo: Gundam Cafe in Akihabara

If you're a fan of the Gundam franchise, then this cafe is a must visit. But even if you're not, it is still worth seeing what a themed cafe in japan looks like.

Coffe art

there's a large screen playing the opening and ending themes of different gundam series

Ootoya

Ootoya is a chain restaurant in Tokyo that offers Japanese dishes for a reasonable price. Meals range from Y700-Y1300.

My favorite is this traditional Japanese dessert with vanilla ice crean, red bean, and green tea mochi.

Niku Shokudou

Niku Shokudou is a small restaurant near the Takadanobaba Station that specializes in sizzling hamburger steaks. A set meal consists of rice, salad and a sizzling hamburger steak costs around Y800.  

What amazes me is how you cook the burger patty. There's a small round black metal on your plate where you can put a piece of the burger and wait until it cooks. Brilliant isn't it? Most of us are having trouble getting the correct texture of the meat we order: some like rare, medium-rare or well done. Having this small tool right on our plates solves the problem right away. We won't have the right to complain if we don't like the texture of the meat because we cooked it ourselves. ;) 

  

To get there, take the JR Yamanote Line and get off at Takadanobaba Station. Go to the Waseda Exit and find Becks Coffee (right beside the JR ticket office). From Becks Coffee, cross the street and walk straight ahead towards a long line of restaurants and cafes. Walk for a minute or two and you'll find the restaurant on your left side. Be careful though because the entrance to the restaurant easy to miss because it's so small and hardly noticeable. I posted the photo of the entrance above as your guide. The restaurant  is on the basement of this restaurant. It's quite small with only a few tables and chairs.

TIP:
For the hungry wolves though, this is not the place to go because preparing the order and cooking it might take a long time. But if you have time to spare for a good talk with a friend or a few laughs with the stranger on the next table, waiting will not be so bad.

Where to Eat in Tokyo: Genki Sushi

Genki Sushi is a famous chain of cheap sushi restaurants in Tokyo. You can get a plate of sushi for just Y108 yen! However, unlike traditional sushi restaurants, you won't be able to see the chef prepare the sushi right in front of you. But, it's still fun because the "spirit" of eating in a kainten sushi still remains. You will still receive your order through a mechanical conveyor belt.

 

Step 1. Choose your order from the menu in front of you. Don't worry, there is an English option in the menu so you don't have to worry about making the wrong choice or ordering an expensive plate. There are also pictures right next to the name of the sushi so you won't get surprised at how interesting your order might look like.

 

Step 2. Wait for your oder. It will arrive right in front of you through the conveyor belt. As soon as your order arrives, a small button in front of you will blink. Take out the plate from the conveyor belt, then press the blinking button so the tray would go back to the kitchen. Please don't forget to press the button because you don't want to keep the tray right in front of you while there are several other customers waiting for their orders.

 

Step 3. Though the sushi plates are not self-service because they will be delivered right in front of you, preparing the tea is. You can just grab a glass (on top of the shelf). There is also powdered green tea on the table. You can put as much in your glass as you want to. And yes, there's also a faucet right in front of you where you can get hot water for your tea. Yes, you read it right, a steel faucet right in front of you. Isn't that cool?

 

Step 4. Press the checkout button if you`re done with your orders and pay at the counter. Unlike in other Japanese restaurants where you need to clean your plates or tables, in a sushi place, you can just leave them on top of your table.

An Afternoon at Cafe VG

    The company of my favorite notebooks, colorful pens and a cup of coffee never fails to zap me into another world especially when I am in a cafe as nice as this. I was on my way home from Waseda University when I chanced upon this coffee shop, Cafe VG. I do not usually take this route to the station, but since I went to the Takata Library, I had to take this street.

     I found this random cafe while walking from Waseda University to Takadanobaba Station. It is a hidden gem, in a literal sense, because the cafe is along the road, but cannot be easily spotted. Would you believe it, this beautiful cafe is hidden behind a tall wooden fence! The only evidence of its existence is a small signboard on the side of the road that bears its name and its operating hours. On the side of the road is a large vacant lot (I can't remember if it's a parking space or just an empty spot waiting to be useful). On the side is a very narrow pathway that leads to the cafe behind the fence. As soon as you set foot on the stone path, you can sense how much the owner loves pets because it is designed with these little paw prints(the stones are so cute you wouldn't want to step on them).

     At the door of the cafe, a cute orange dog statue welcomes you with this "open" sign. From the window you can take a peek at the cute counter lined with bottles of wine (i think?). As I open the door, a loud bark greeted me from a very adorable, curly haired black and white dog (I don't know what breed it is though, sorry!). It has a bright yellow collar and a stylish dog shirt on.

     
Outside the cafe are some tables, which would have been a nice place to hangout at during summer, but maybe not in a cold winter day like this.

     The interior of the cafe is very lovely! The cafe looks like an old log cottage. All the furniture are made of wood. I am so much into wooden furniture, so I totally dig this place. The photos in this post fall short in showing how lovely it is (please see this link for a more video of the place). I also like the fact that each table is partnered with mismatched chairs.I found beauty in that variation.

     I also love the displays in the cafe. They put these intricate details that create such a vintage-like feel. I love those old postcards and vintage telephone. I was tempted to play with them the whole time I was there!

 

     The menu is also designed with some cute paw prints and dog photos. I ordered the VG Blend, which costs around Y500. It seems like an ordinary black coffee at first look, but it tastes different. There is a distinct flavor that stings your taste buds, which I honestly didn't like. For me, it tastes sour (or something close to that effect). I was only able to finish half of the cup. I would love to try the other kinds of coffee next time I visit, maybe I would love them better.  

     This is indeed an unexpected find as I walked along a route I don't usually take. I enjoyed hanging around the cafe for several hours especially when English dance hits (from J.Lo and Miley Cyrus) are playing in the background.  The owners of the shop (a couple, I think) are also very hospitable in attending to my needs. I guess, I will keep on coming back to this cafe, especially, when I have tons of books to read or papers to finish.

Going Thai

     My friends and I were supposed to have pizza night at the dorm today, but we decided to just eat out and explore some of the interesting places near our dorm. We came across this Thai restaurant along Prope Dori, a street on the right of the Tokorozawa Station exit. There is a large welcome sign that bears the street's name so you will definitely not get lost if you are looking for it. The restaurant is on the second floor of one of the buildings near the end of the street. If you are coming from the station, it is on the left side.

     The food tastes very good, there is a very authentic Thai taste to it. We ordered the red and yellow chicken curry. At first, the serving looked kind of small but we were not even able to finish the whole dish. I prefer the red curry because it is a little spicy. It is not spicy to the extent that your tongue is numbing and you cannot taste the food anymore. The spiciness is just right to increase your appetite and make you want to eat more with every bite.

     We also ordered the Pad Thai, a famous stir-fried noodle dish, and of course, how can we miss the spring rolls! The Pad Thai has a very big serving, we even had some left overs. On the contrary, there were only four small spring rolls on the plate, which appear to me were only two pieces and were only cut into halves to make it four. I like the Pad Thai very much. The noodles may seem a little difficult to chew at first because they are a little hard as compared to the more common Italian pasta, but you will eventually get used to the chewing. The more you chew, the more you get to taste the flavor it has.

     The ambiance of the place is not that bad. The interior of the restaurant is not that cozy, but it stays faithful to the Thai feel. There are these cute low Thai tables that require you to sit on the floor. I would have loved to try that table, but my friends wanted to take the regular ones. There are also these colorful round lights overhead that are cute but do not totally brighten the place. The place is a little dim, but in a very good way. It sets the mood for a long, nice chat with your friends or a few bottle of beers.

     To get there, take the Seibu Shinjuku Line (bound for Kawagoe, Hon-Kawagoe or Shin-Tokorozawa) or Seibu Ikebukuro Line (bound for Hanno) and get off at Tokorozawa Station. It takes around 30 minutes from Shinjuku and the fare is Y360. It is more advisable to take the express train when going to Tokorozawa to save time.