Blood Ceilings at Genkoan Temple

Is that a foot print? Oh yes it is! And you can see that not on the floor of the Genkoan Temple but on the ceiling! What's even more interesting about this foot print was that it was actually a blood print. These wooden boards used to be a part of the Fushimi Castle where a number of samurais committed seppuku when the castle was about to fall to Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1600. The castle wasburnt  down to ashes but the hall where these floor boars came from (fortunately or unfortunately) survived. For the repose of the souls of the samurais who lost their lives in that castle, the floor boards were distributed to several temples around Kyoto, Genkoan, being one of them. 

While the other attraction of the Gekoan Temple - the round and square windows - would be good to look at, never forget  to look up for some foot prints (and blood stains!) on the ceilings! 

Kuroda Kanbei's Himeji Castle

Ghibli Great Exhibition: from Nausicaä to The Red Turtle

A reconstruction of the battleship from Castle in the Sky

For Studio Ghibli's 30th anniversary, an exhibition of rare Ghibli-related items, from its 1984 hit Nausicaa and the Valley of the Wind to its most recent release The Red Turtle, is being held at the Mori Art Museum in Roppongi until September 11.

The seemingly haphazard way the exhibition is non-chronologically arranged is consciously intended, Ghibli producer Suzuki Toshio explained in an interview with nippon.com. The exhibition tries to recreate the experience of extracting memories arranged in a filmgoer's mind. The exhibition was based from the exhibitions held in Aichi and Niigata Prefectures in 2015 but a section on The Red Turtle, which is scheduled for release on September 17, is added to the present exhibition.

The displays showcase around 2,500 items related to the films released in the past 30 years, with a large volume composed of promotional items like flyers and posters. The invitation sent by the Academy Awards to Studio Ghibli for its Awarding Ceremony in 2001 is exhibited for all visitors to see. Of course, displayed beside it is the signature golden trophy of the Academy Awards won by Spirited Away for Best Animated Feature at the 75th Academy Awards, making it the only hand-drawn Japanese film to win a Best Animated Film award.

Other highlights of the exhibition include a life-sized Totoro behind a counter greeting the visitors upon entry, a Cat Bus where visitors can have their pictures taken (but there is always a long line in this section so you would only be allowed to pose for a few seconds, so make sure you give it your best shot!) and a reconstruction of the battleship from Castle in the Sky before you exit. 

This is indeed a must-see for Ghibli fans who would like to trace the 30-year history of the studio and marvel at the authentic old posters and previously unseen and unreleased sketches of Ghibli characters and scenes. The lack of English translation of the description of the items can be a turn off at some points (knowing that Mori Art Museum usually puts them but why not in this exhibit). The exhibition would have been more fun if visitors could actually understand the historical significance of the specific objects in Ghibli's long history but this is not a distraction that should put off a real Ghibli fan from seeing what other things the exhibition has to offer. 

Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe

Kilala ang Kawagoe sa tawag na “Little Edo” dahil sa mga lumang gusali dito na nagpapaalala sa buhay noong Edo Period (1603-1868). Kabilang sa mga lumang gusaling naipreserba sa loob ng maraming taon ang mga ryotei o “caretaker tearooms.” Noong Edo Period, dito nagpupulong ang mga pinuno ng mga makakapangyarihang angkan at mga opsiyal ng gobyerno. Sinsabing napakaekslusibo noon ng paggamit ng mga lugar na ito. By referral lamang tinatanggap ang mga taong nais kumain dito. Bagamat mayroon pa ring mga ekslusibong ryotei sa kasalukuyan, marami na rin ang tumatanggap ng mga walk-in. 

Kasama ng mahal na pagkain at pribadong mga silid noon ang serbisyo ng mga geisha. Subalit sa paglipas ng panahon, nawala na ang mga geisha at naging simpleng kainan na lamang ang mga ryotei. Gayun pa man, hindi nagbago ang mataas na kalidad ng mga pagkaing inihahain dito at ang metikulosong serbisyong ibinibigay ng mga nakai o mga babeng tagasilbi dito. Ang mga nakai ay nasa ilalim ng pamumuno ng okami na noon ay karaniwang asawa ng may-ari ng ryotei at siyang naninigurado na maayos ang pagsisilbi sa lahat ng mga kumakain dito. 

Mga magagaling na chef na may maraming taon ng karanasan sa pagluluto ang naghahanda ng mga pagkain sa ryotei. Dahil din deka-dekada na ang tagal ng mga ryotei na ito, nakabuo na ito ng mahabang kasaysayan at ekspertong paraan sa paghahanda ng kanilang mga specialty. Ang mga pagkain sa ryotei ay kaiseki o tradisyonal na Japanese multi-course meal na nangangailangan ng matinding kasanayan ng mga taong naghahanda nito.

Ang mga sumusunod ang ilan sa mga kilalang ryotei sa Kawagoe:

Subukan ang traditional hand-rolled sushi sa Kousushi Kawagoe. Unang nagbukas noong 1901, ang ryotei na ito ay mayroon nang mahigit sa 100 taon ng kasaysayaan sa paggawa ng sushi na nilalahukan nila ng pinakasariwang isda at seafood na nababagay sa bawat season. Mayroon silang 10 counter seats na nagpapaalala ng mga sinaunang araw ng pagbubukas ng lugar na ito. Maliit man ang silid na ito, gawa naman sa matibay na cypress ang mga upuan at lamesa na tiyak na magpapakomportable sa pagkain ng mga bibisita dito. Mayroon din silang mga pribadong silid na may magandang tanawin ng hardin kung saan maaaring magtipon ang mga pamilya, magkakaibigan o magkakatrabaho sa espesyal na mga okasyon. Mayroon din silang tatami mat room na mayroong mga upuan at lamesa na nakaharap sa hardin. Nagkakahalaga lamang ng halos Y2000 ang kanilang mga lunch meals. Mayroon din silang mga espesyal na menu para sa mga magrereserba ng pribadong mga silid na nagkakahalaga ng Y5000-Y15,000.

Subukan ang seasonal Kaiseki ng Yamaya. Nagsimula ang Yamaya bilang isang catering business na unang itinayo sa tabi ng tirahan ni Yokoto Gorobei, isang mayamang mangangalakal noong Edo Period. Noong 1868, binili ni Hambei, ang unang nagmay-ari ng Yamaya, ang isa sa mga magagandang guesthouses ni Yokota na siyang naging lugar ng kasalukuyang Yamaya. Ipinagmamalaki ng ryotei na ito ang kanilang seasonal kaiseki ryori na maaaring kainin habang pinagmamsdan ang magandang hardin. Nagkakahalaga ng Y1,500-Y3,000 ang lunch menu nila sa non-reserved rooms at Y4,500 pataas naman sa reserved rooms. 

Subukan ang inihaw na unagi sa Azumaya. Kilala ang Azumaya sa natatanging sarap ng unagi nila na maingat na inihaw sa uling at nilagyan ng espesyal na sauce. Unang binuksan ang lugar na ito noong 1868. Sa loob ng mahigit 100, napagbuti ng Azumaya ang pagluluto ng kanilang mga unagi na sinasabing malutong ang labas ngunit malambot at malinamnam ang loob. Bukod sa pagkain, huwag din kalimutang silipin ang magandang pond sa labas ng ryotei. Ang tubig mula sa bukal nito ay dating dumdaloy sa may Kitain Temple. Nagkakahalaga ng Y1700 ang unagi set nila. 

Honmaru Goten in Kawagoe

Entrance to the Honmaru Goten 

This is the only remaining structure left of the Kawagoe Castle. The honmaru goten or the lord's residence was built in 1848 although the original castle was built 500 years earlier in 1457 by Ota Doshin and his son Dokan under the order of Uesugi Mochitomo. In the 1450s, the castle was held by the Uesugi clan, however, the Hojo clan seized it in 1537 as the latter started to expand its control in the Kanto region.When Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, conquered the Kanto area in 1590, he established Kawagoe as one of the main fiefs in his domain. Kawagoe became a military base for defending Edo and a commercial base for transporting goods to the center of Edo.

View of the garden

Unusual Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss in Autumn

Visiting spots where people can marvel at the beauty of red, yellow and orange leaves neatly woven together in a breathtaking tapestry is quite a common activity once autumn sets in. However, for those who would like to dig into Japan’s rich history (and of course for those up for a little more adventure), here are some interesting Autumn festivals that would definitely sprinkle a tinge of wonder in your autumn experience:

Laugh your heart out at the Hidakagawa Warai Festival in Wakayama. Laughing is an instinct that has been taken for granted by many people in many occasions, but definitely not in this festival. This actually encourages a lot of those! During the festival, a sendatsu, a man with his face covered in white make-up, parades the streets with a bell in his left hand and a treasure box in his right together with 12 warai otoko or laughing men garbed in traditional costume carrying 12 different kinds of autumn crops skewered on sticks. They encourage the spectators to laugh with them as they shout, “Warau, warau!” This festival is said to have originated from a legend saying that a goddess named Niutsu Hime no Mikoto overslept and missed an annual gathering of the gods. Feeling terribly upset with the incident, she locked herself in the Niu Shrine and wouldn’t come out so the villagers tried to cheer her up by, as you have guessed it, laughing! This, in turn, uplifted not only the goddess but the villagers as well. This event is annually held in early October, on the Sunday following the National Athletic Holiday. 

Enjoy the floats at the Autumn Takayama Festival in Gifu. This festival is regarded as one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan together with Gion Matsuri in Kyoto and Chichibu Matsuri in Saitama. This festival, also known as Hachiman Matsuri and done at Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, has a spring counterpart known as the Sanno Matsuri and is held at the Hie Shrine. The autumn festival is annually held on October 9-10. The highlight of the festival is the parade of 11 intricately designed floats or yatai kaikan which reflect the rich craftsmanship of the many generations of artisans living in this town.  

Watch horseback riding archers at Ana Hachimangu Yabusame Festival in Tokyo. Happening on October 2 every year, this festival is one of the must-sees in Tokyo. The highlight of this festival is a demonstration done by archers, dressed in traditional Japanese attire, shooting arrows to a target while seated on a horse . In 1728, then shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune, asked the people of this town to keep on practicing yabusame as a form of prayer to the gods to heal his sick son. 

Light some fire at the Kurama Fire Festival in Kyoto. On October 22 every year, villagers carrying torches march around Mt. Kurama, where Minamoto no Yoshitsune was said to have learned his sword skills from the king of the evil deities, Sojobu Tengu. At sunset, the villagers set up bonfires outside their houses and bring out their family treasures like armors and screens. Men and children then carry the torches, some of which are 80kg in weight and 5meters long, around the village. The people gather at the Yuki Shrine to worship and end the long night. This festival originated when the emperor ordered the transfer of the Yuki Myojin, one of the guardian demons of the imperial court, to the North of Kyoto after the city was hit by a strong earthquake in 940 to protect the city. When the guardian first came to Kurama, the villagers are said to have welcomed it with torches. 

Walk like a daimyo at the Hakone Daimyo Gyoretsu Festival in Kanagawa. This festival is conducted on Culture Day, November 3, every year at Yumoto Onsen in Hakone, Kanagawa. Almost 200 people dressed as samurai warriors, princesses, and court assistants parade around the town covering a distance of about 6km. The parade was a reenactment of a daimyo’s (feudal lord) procession during the Edo Period (1603-1858) known as the sankin kotai. As ordered by the shogun, the daimyos needed to take residence alternately in the capital for a year and in their fief the following year to ensure their loyalty. The festival parade starts at Sounji Temple at 10am and ends at Yumoto Fujiya Hotel at around 2pm. There are also marching bands and performances accompanying the daimyos and the members of their entourage.   

*** Published in the September 2016 issue of the Filipino Japanese-Journal

Dining Like a Boss: Lunch in a Ryotei

A ryotei is a high class, luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant that used to cater to the heads of powerful clans in the Edo Period and government officials. It is also called "caretaker tearooms" because clan members usually bring their guests in these establishments for a private meeting. While geishas used to accompany customers in the past, the ryotei eventually became just a restaurant in the recent decades. Geishas might have disappeared in the scene but hospitable serving ladies called nakai still make sure that customers are well-attended during their stay. All the nakais are under the okami or the lady of the house who is usually the wife of the owner. A ryotei usually serves a multi-course traditional Japanese meals called kaiseki. It is a full course meal that is prepared only by people who have garnered years of expertise in preparing this food. 

The interior of the tatami room

During my recent trip to Kawagoe, I decided to try dining in one of these so-called "luxurious" restaurants and have a taste of the "good life" that former powerful feudal lords used to experience. (See this post to read about my day trip in Kawagoe). I decided to have lunch in Kou Sushi, a ryotei that boasts more than 100 years of expertise in preparing and serving kaiseki, specializing specifically on sushi. 

Kou Sushi first opened in 1901. It opened with only a few counter seats. At present, they have a 10-seater counter that is reminiscent of its humble beginnings. The place also has private rooms where families and friends can gather for special occasions. These rooms have a wonderful view of the finely sculpted Japanese garden. It also has an ordinary tatami room with regular tables and chairs. 

As soon as I entered the place, I was warmly welcomed by a nakai standing on the genkan. I removed my shoes, placed it on the racks and put on a clean pair of slippers. The nakai led me to the tatami room with regular chairs and tables. I asked if they had available private rooms but the nakai told me that this is the only room available for lunch. I arrived around 12nn and was lucky because I was the first one in the room. I got to pick the nicest table in the room, a four-seater table overlooking the Japanese garden all to myself. 

This ryotei offers very cheap lunch menus. They have soba and tempura sets for only Y1,700. I ordered the sushi set, which costs Y2,300. I originally wanted to order the sashimi set I saw on their website but the nakai that they only offer it during weekends. For my sushi set, I was asked to pick two side dishes and a dessert. I chose tempura and a pork dish for my side dishes and a kind of sweets made of sweet potato that is famous in Kawagoe. A beverage is also included in the meal. You can choose from beer, black tea or orange juice. 

the dessert made of sweet potato

After 15-20 minutes of waiting, my food finally arrived and it is so much worth the wait. The fishes on the sushi are super fresh; the pork was super tender the fat was melting in my mouth; and the tempura was crispy on the outside but very soft and tender inside. After I finished my meal, the nakai served my dessert. I requested for a cup of black tea, which she generously served me. Honestly, I am not a fan of sweet potatoes but this dessert was so good I finished it after only a few scoops!

Dining in a ryotei is an experience that is not meant to be missed by people traveling in Japan, not only for its excellent food, but also for the kind of service it offers. The staff are very warm and hospitable. Now that I have tried what it is like dining in a ryotei and after knowing that it won't really cost you an arm and a leg (though some exclusive ones would probably do!), I would definitely do it again and again!

See this post for the Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe.