Blood Ceilings at Genkoan Temple

Is that a foot print? Oh yes it is! And you can see that not on the floor of the Genkoan Temple but on the ceiling! What's even more interesting about this foot print was that it was actually a blood print. These wooden boards used to be a part of the Fushimi Castle where a number of samurais committed seppuku when the castle was about to fall to Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1600. The castle wasburnt  down to ashes but the hall where these floor boars came from (fortunately or unfortunately) survived. For the repose of the souls of the samurais who lost their lives in that castle, the floor boards were distributed to several temples around Kyoto, Genkoan, being one of them. 

While the other attraction of the Gekoan Temple - the round and square windows - would be good to look at, never forget  to look up for some foot prints (and blood stains!) on the ceilings! 

Kuroda Kanbei's Himeji Castle

Ghibli Great Exhibition: from Nausicaä to The Red Turtle

A reconstruction of the battleship from Castle in the Sky

For Studio Ghibli's 30th anniversary, an exhibition of rare Ghibli-related items, from its 1984 hit Nausicaa and the Valley of the Wind to its most recent release The Red Turtle, is being held at the Mori Art Museum in Roppongi until September 11.

The seemingly haphazard way the exhibition is non-chronologically arranged is consciously intended, Ghibli producer Suzuki Toshio explained in an interview with nippon.com. The exhibition tries to recreate the experience of extracting memories arranged in a filmgoer's mind. The exhibition was based from the exhibitions held in Aichi and Niigata Prefectures in 2015 but a section on The Red Turtle, which is scheduled for release on September 17, is added to the present exhibition.

The displays showcase around 2,500 items related to the films released in the past 30 years, with a large volume composed of promotional items like flyers and posters. The invitation sent by the Academy Awards to Studio Ghibli for its Awarding Ceremony in 2001 is exhibited for all visitors to see. Of course, displayed beside it is the signature golden trophy of the Academy Awards won by Spirited Away for Best Animated Feature at the 75th Academy Awards, making it the only hand-drawn Japanese film to win a Best Animated Film award.

Other highlights of the exhibition include a life-sized Totoro behind a counter greeting the visitors upon entry, a Cat Bus where visitors can have their pictures taken (but there is always a long line in this section so you would only be allowed to pose for a few seconds, so make sure you give it your best shot!) and a reconstruction of the battleship from Castle in the Sky before you exit. 

This is indeed a must-see for Ghibli fans who would like to trace the 30-year history of the studio and marvel at the authentic old posters and previously unseen and unreleased sketches of Ghibli characters and scenes. The lack of English translation of the description of the items can be a turn off at some points (knowing that Mori Art Museum usually puts them but why not in this exhibit). The exhibition would have been more fun if visitors could actually understand the historical significance of the specific objects in Ghibli's long history but this is not a distraction that should put off a real Ghibli fan from seeing what other things the exhibition has to offer. 

Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe

Kilala ang Kawagoe sa tawag na “Little Edo” dahil sa mga lumang gusali dito na nagpapaalala sa buhay noong Edo Period (1603-1868). Kabilang sa mga lumang gusaling naipreserba sa loob ng maraming taon ang mga ryotei o “caretaker tearooms.” Noong Edo Period, dito nagpupulong ang mga pinuno ng mga makakapangyarihang angkan at mga opsiyal ng gobyerno. Sinsabing napakaekslusibo noon ng paggamit ng mga lugar na ito. By referral lamang tinatanggap ang mga taong nais kumain dito. Bagamat mayroon pa ring mga ekslusibong ryotei sa kasalukuyan, marami na rin ang tumatanggap ng mga walk-in. 

Kasama ng mahal na pagkain at pribadong mga silid noon ang serbisyo ng mga geisha. Subalit sa paglipas ng panahon, nawala na ang mga geisha at naging simpleng kainan na lamang ang mga ryotei. Gayun pa man, hindi nagbago ang mataas na kalidad ng mga pagkaing inihahain dito at ang metikulosong serbisyong ibinibigay ng mga nakai o mga babeng tagasilbi dito. Ang mga nakai ay nasa ilalim ng pamumuno ng okami na noon ay karaniwang asawa ng may-ari ng ryotei at siyang naninigurado na maayos ang pagsisilbi sa lahat ng mga kumakain dito. 

Mga magagaling na chef na may maraming taon ng karanasan sa pagluluto ang naghahanda ng mga pagkain sa ryotei. Dahil din deka-dekada na ang tagal ng mga ryotei na ito, nakabuo na ito ng mahabang kasaysayan at ekspertong paraan sa paghahanda ng kanilang mga specialty. Ang mga pagkain sa ryotei ay kaiseki o tradisyonal na Japanese multi-course meal na nangangailangan ng matinding kasanayan ng mga taong naghahanda nito.

Ang mga sumusunod ang ilan sa mga kilalang ryotei sa Kawagoe:

Subukan ang traditional hand-rolled sushi sa Kousushi Kawagoe. Unang nagbukas noong 1901, ang ryotei na ito ay mayroon nang mahigit sa 100 taon ng kasaysayaan sa paggawa ng sushi na nilalahukan nila ng pinakasariwang isda at seafood na nababagay sa bawat season. Mayroon silang 10 counter seats na nagpapaalala ng mga sinaunang araw ng pagbubukas ng lugar na ito. Maliit man ang silid na ito, gawa naman sa matibay na cypress ang mga upuan at lamesa na tiyak na magpapakomportable sa pagkain ng mga bibisita dito. Mayroon din silang mga pribadong silid na may magandang tanawin ng hardin kung saan maaaring magtipon ang mga pamilya, magkakaibigan o magkakatrabaho sa espesyal na mga okasyon. Mayroon din silang tatami mat room na mayroong mga upuan at lamesa na nakaharap sa hardin. Nagkakahalaga lamang ng halos Y2000 ang kanilang mga lunch meals. Mayroon din silang mga espesyal na menu para sa mga magrereserba ng pribadong mga silid na nagkakahalaga ng Y5000-Y15,000.

Subukan ang seasonal Kaiseki ng Yamaya. Nagsimula ang Yamaya bilang isang catering business na unang itinayo sa tabi ng tirahan ni Yokoto Gorobei, isang mayamang mangangalakal noong Edo Period. Noong 1868, binili ni Hambei, ang unang nagmay-ari ng Yamaya, ang isa sa mga magagandang guesthouses ni Yokota na siyang naging lugar ng kasalukuyang Yamaya. Ipinagmamalaki ng ryotei na ito ang kanilang seasonal kaiseki ryori na maaaring kainin habang pinagmamsdan ang magandang hardin. Nagkakahalaga ng Y1,500-Y3,000 ang lunch menu nila sa non-reserved rooms at Y4,500 pataas naman sa reserved rooms. 

Subukan ang inihaw na unagi sa Azumaya. Kilala ang Azumaya sa natatanging sarap ng unagi nila na maingat na inihaw sa uling at nilagyan ng espesyal na sauce. Unang binuksan ang lugar na ito noong 1868. Sa loob ng mahigit 100, napagbuti ng Azumaya ang pagluluto ng kanilang mga unagi na sinasabing malutong ang labas ngunit malambot at malinamnam ang loob. Bukod sa pagkain, huwag din kalimutang silipin ang magandang pond sa labas ng ryotei. Ang tubig mula sa bukal nito ay dating dumdaloy sa may Kitain Temple. Nagkakahalaga ng Y1700 ang unagi set nila. 

Honmaru Goten in Kawagoe

Entrance to the Honmaru Goten 

This is the only remaining structure left of the Kawagoe Castle. The honmaru goten or the lord's residence was built in 1848 although the original castle was built 500 years earlier in 1457 by Ota Doshin and his son Dokan under the order of Uesugi Mochitomo. In the 1450s, the castle was held by the Uesugi clan, however, the Hojo clan seized it in 1537 as the latter started to expand its control in the Kanto region.When Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, conquered the Kanto area in 1590, he established Kawagoe as one of the main fiefs in his domain. Kawagoe became a military base for defending Edo and a commercial base for transporting goods to the center of Edo.

View of the garden

Unusual Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss in Autumn

Visiting spots where people can marvel at the beauty of red, yellow and orange leaves neatly woven together in a breathtaking tapestry is quite a common activity once autumn sets in. However, for those who would like to dig into Japan’s rich history (and of course for those up for a little more adventure), here are some interesting Autumn festivals that would definitely sprinkle a tinge of wonder in your autumn experience:

Laugh your heart out at the Hidakagawa Warai Festival in Wakayama. Laughing is an instinct that has been taken for granted by many people in many occasions, but definitely not in this festival. This actually encourages a lot of those! During the festival, a sendatsu, a man with his face covered in white make-up, parades the streets with a bell in his left hand and a treasure box in his right together with 12 warai otoko or laughing men garbed in traditional costume carrying 12 different kinds of autumn crops skewered on sticks. They encourage the spectators to laugh with them as they shout, “Warau, warau!” This festival is said to have originated from a legend saying that a goddess named Niutsu Hime no Mikoto overslept and missed an annual gathering of the gods. Feeling terribly upset with the incident, she locked herself in the Niu Shrine and wouldn’t come out so the villagers tried to cheer her up by, as you have guessed it, laughing! This, in turn, uplifted not only the goddess but the villagers as well. This event is annually held in early October, on the Sunday following the National Athletic Holiday. 

Enjoy the floats at the Autumn Takayama Festival in Gifu. This festival is regarded as one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan together with Gion Matsuri in Kyoto and Chichibu Matsuri in Saitama. This festival, also known as Hachiman Matsuri and done at Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, has a spring counterpart known as the Sanno Matsuri and is held at the Hie Shrine. The autumn festival is annually held on October 9-10. The highlight of the festival is the parade of 11 intricately designed floats or yatai kaikan which reflect the rich craftsmanship of the many generations of artisans living in this town.  

Watch horseback riding archers at Ana Hachimangu Yabusame Festival in Tokyo. Happening on October 2 every year, this festival is one of the must-sees in Tokyo. The highlight of this festival is a demonstration done by archers, dressed in traditional Japanese attire, shooting arrows to a target while seated on a horse . In 1728, then shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune, asked the people of this town to keep on practicing yabusame as a form of prayer to the gods to heal his sick son. 

Light some fire at the Kurama Fire Festival in Kyoto. On October 22 every year, villagers carrying torches march around Mt. Kurama, where Minamoto no Yoshitsune was said to have learned his sword skills from the king of the evil deities, Sojobu Tengu. At sunset, the villagers set up bonfires outside their houses and bring out their family treasures like armors and screens. Men and children then carry the torches, some of which are 80kg in weight and 5meters long, around the village. The people gather at the Yuki Shrine to worship and end the long night. This festival originated when the emperor ordered the transfer of the Yuki Myojin, one of the guardian demons of the imperial court, to the North of Kyoto after the city was hit by a strong earthquake in 940 to protect the city. When the guardian first came to Kurama, the villagers are said to have welcomed it with torches. 

Walk like a daimyo at the Hakone Daimyo Gyoretsu Festival in Kanagawa. This festival is conducted on Culture Day, November 3, every year at Yumoto Onsen in Hakone, Kanagawa. Almost 200 people dressed as samurai warriors, princesses, and court assistants parade around the town covering a distance of about 6km. The parade was a reenactment of a daimyo’s (feudal lord) procession during the Edo Period (1603-1858) known as the sankin kotai. As ordered by the shogun, the daimyos needed to take residence alternately in the capital for a year and in their fief the following year to ensure their loyalty. The festival parade starts at Sounji Temple at 10am and ends at Yumoto Fujiya Hotel at around 2pm. There are also marching bands and performances accompanying the daimyos and the members of their entourage.   

*** Published in the September 2016 issue of the Filipino Japanese-Journal

Dining Like a Boss: Lunch in a Ryotei

A ryotei is a high class, luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant that used to cater to the heads of powerful clans in the Edo Period and government officials. It is also called "caretaker tearooms" because clan members usually bring their guests in these establishments for a private meeting. While geishas used to accompany customers in the past, the ryotei eventually became just a restaurant in the recent decades. Geishas might have disappeared in the scene but hospitable serving ladies called nakai still make sure that customers are well-attended during their stay. All the nakais are under the okami or the lady of the house who is usually the wife of the owner. A ryotei usually serves a multi-course traditional Japanese meals called kaiseki. It is a full course meal that is prepared only by people who have garnered years of expertise in preparing this food. 

The interior of the tatami room

During my recent trip to Kawagoe, I decided to try dining in one of these so-called "luxurious" restaurants and have a taste of the "good life" that former powerful feudal lords used to experience. (See this post to read about my day trip in Kawagoe). I decided to have lunch in Kou Sushi, a ryotei that boasts more than 100 years of expertise in preparing and serving kaiseki, specializing specifically on sushi. 

Kou Sushi first opened in 1901. It opened with only a few counter seats. At present, they have a 10-seater counter that is reminiscent of its humble beginnings. The place also has private rooms where families and friends can gather for special occasions. These rooms have a wonderful view of the finely sculpted Japanese garden. It also has an ordinary tatami room with regular tables and chairs. 

As soon as I entered the place, I was warmly welcomed by a nakai standing on the genkan. I removed my shoes, placed it on the racks and put on a clean pair of slippers. The nakai led me to the tatami room with regular chairs and tables. I asked if they had available private rooms but the nakai told me that this is the only room available for lunch. I arrived around 12nn and was lucky because I was the first one in the room. I got to pick the nicest table in the room, a four-seater table overlooking the Japanese garden all to myself. 

This ryotei offers very cheap lunch menus. They have soba and tempura sets for only Y1,700. I ordered the sushi set, which costs Y2,300. I originally wanted to order the sashimi set I saw on their website but the nakai that they only offer it during weekends. For my sushi set, I was asked to pick two side dishes and a dessert. I chose tempura and a pork dish for my side dishes and a kind of sweets made of sweet potato that is famous in Kawagoe. A beverage is also included in the meal. You can choose from beer, black tea or orange juice. 

the dessert made of sweet potato

After 15-20 minutes of waiting, my food finally arrived and it is so much worth the wait. The fishes on the sushi are super fresh; the pork was super tender the fat was melting in my mouth; and the tempura was crispy on the outside but very soft and tender inside. After I finished my meal, the nakai served my dessert. I requested for a cup of black tea, which she generously served me. Honestly, I am not a fan of sweet potatoes but this dessert was so good I finished it after only a few scoops!

Dining in a ryotei is an experience that is not meant to be missed by people traveling in Japan, not only for its excellent food, but also for the kind of service it offers. The staff are very warm and hospitable. Now that I have tried what it is like dining in a ryotei and after knowing that it won't really cost you an arm and a leg (though some exclusive ones would probably do!), I would definitely do it again and again!

See this post for the Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe.

A Day Trip to Kawagoe: Remnants of the Edo Period

Kawagoe is popularly known as "Little Edo"  because of its well-preserved buildings that mirror the kind of life locals led in the Edo Period (1603-1868). The area where the historical sites are concentrated is not that big. Purchasing a day pass for the either the Co-Edo Loop Bus (Y500) or the Sightseeing bus (Y300) will surely be worth it. Although both buses stop in most of the historical sites, the Co-Edo Loop Bus has more trips in a day. There is one departing from Kawagoe Station every fifteen minutes or every so often on weekdays. 

Because I had very limited time on the day I went to Kawagoe, I decided to go straight to the places that interested me the most. There are a number of temples and shrines in the area that could cultivate varying degrees of interest in people but as for me, I chose to go to the ones that have very strong historical significance. Here are some of the highly recommended places that tourists must visit in a day trip in Kawagoe:

Visit Honmaru Goten of Kawagoe Castle. This is the only remaining structure left of the Kawagoe Castle. The honmaru goten or the lord's residence was built in 1848 although the original castle was built 500 years earlier in 1457 by Ota Doshin and his son Dokan under the order of Uesugi Mochitomo. When Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, conquered the Kanto area in 1590, he established Kawagoe as one of the main fiefs in his domain. Kawagoe became a military base for defending Edo and a commercial base for transporting goods to the center of Edo. 

Lunch in one of the ryoteis. A ryotei is a high class, luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant that used to cater to the heads of powerful clans in the Edo Period and government officials. It is also called "caretaker tearooms" because clan members usually bring their guests in these establishments for a private meeting. While geishas used to accompany customers in the past, the ryotei eventually became just a restaurant in the recent decades. Geishas might have disappeared in the scene but hospitable serving ladies called nakai still make sure that customers are well-attended during their stay. A ryotei usually serves a multi-course traditional Japanese meals called kaiseki. It is a full course meal that is prepared only by people who have garnered years of expertise in preparing this food. See this post for my dining experience in a ryotei and this post for the Best Ryoteis in Kawagoe. 

Indulge in sweets on Kashiya Yokocho (Penny Candy Lane). This small area composed of small, short alleys are lined with traditional sweet shops, candy shops and Japanese treats that will surely bring out the child in you. The shops also provide the passers-by with free samples of their treats. Do not miss the chance to sample the famous Kawagoe treats such as fugashi (wheat gluten snacks) and dango (skewered rice dumplings) glazed with sweet soy sauce. 

In one of the small alleys, there is also a small antiques shop that triggered my interests. It sells postcards from the pre-war period, cups and saucers, Japanese pencils from 1984, magazines with Beatles on the cover and other random stuff like telephones and watches from some decades ago.

Shop on Kura no Machi. This is a long street lined with Japanese homes that had once been storage places for household tools and storehouses of goods. These buildings are said to be fire resistant. Along this road, there are shops that sell traditional Japanese delicacies, a Hello Kitty shop that sells everything, of course, Hello Kitty from magnets to towels, from umbrellas to purses. Along this road, you will also find the Kurazukuri Museum, which used to be the house of tobacco wholesale dealer Bunzo Koyama; the Kawagoe Festival Museum, where the colorful floats paraded during the Kawagoe Festival are stored' and the Toki no Kane, a bell tower used in the Edo Period to announce the time (this happened to be under renovation when I visited). You can also take a leisurely tour around the area on a two-wheeled rickshaw.

Explore the Kitain Temple. The temple was founded by a monk called Ennin in 830 A.D. but was  burnt down during a fight in 1205 and was reconstructed in 1298 by the monk Sonkai. The Kitain became the main temple of the three-temple complex including the Nakain and Minamiin when Tenkai, a monk who became close to the first shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Ieyasu. There are several places of interest within the compounds of the Kitain temple such as the Toshogu Shrine, where Ieyasu was enshrined and honored; Remains of the Edo Castle including the room where the third shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu was born; the graves of five feudal lords or daimyo who ruled Kawagoe in the 18th and 19th Centuries; and the 500 statues of Rakan, each carved with a unique facial expression and pose.

Take a side street. Take a side street or a side alley on your way back to the station. There are other gems hidden behind the more touristy Kura no Machi. If you take a detour at one point, you would surely discover a place that would stir your interest. 

"Beaching" in Shimoda

Beaches in Japan might not compare to those in the Philippines but there are quite a few exceptional ones. Shirahama Ohama Beach in Shimoda, Shizuoka has a 700m long shore of white sand that rests beside blue-green waters with waves small enough to take a dip but sometimes big enough to learn how to surf. There are other beaches in the area such as Tatadohama, which is best for surfing, and Sotoura, which is quiet and more fit for relaxation. 

Travel from Tokyo to Shimoda takes 3-4 hours depending on the type of train that you would take. The Superview Odoriko does not only provide a fast and comfortable travel, its huge windows also allow you to see panoramic views of the ocean beside the track. Regular trains are slower and sometimes crowded, but they cost half the price of the Odoriko. 

There are a couple of things that you should try while in Shimoda:

Stay at a local home. There are a lot of minshuku or family-operated guesthouses scattered around the area. Most of them are found in the residential side of the island, which means it might take a few minutes walk from the beach to reach them. These places provide an “authentic” Japanese feel by letting you stay in a tatami room, sleep on a futon and use a shared bath. Some places charge as low as Y3,500 per person.

Learn how to surf. Shimoda has good waves to learn surfing. There are several surf schools near the beach where you can ask for an instructor and/or rent a surfboard. If you are not into surfing, there are other water sports to try like jetskiing, banana boating and kayaking.

Explore the town’s history. Shimoda is famous for the kurofune or the black ships. In 1853, the ships headed by Commodore Perry docked in Shimoda to force Japan to open its shores to foreign trade after its 250-year seclusion. To trace Perry’s journey, visit the monument marking his landing to the island, do a bay cruise in a replica of the kurofune for only Y1000, walk along the Perry Road, where Perry himself walked on his way to Ryosenji Temple, and buy souvenirs in the shops along the road. 

Eat kinmedai for lunch. Shimoda is a good place for fishing and it holds the record for having the biggest catch of kinmedai in the whole country. Restaurants offer different styles of cooking the fish depending on their own specialties. May it be grilled, simmered or raw, there will be something that definitely suits your taste. 

Join a local festival and watch fireworks from the beach. There is an annual fireworks festival at Shirahama beach that is worth traveling to see. There are beautiful fireworks leaping out of the water and taiko drum performances before and after the show. Food stalls selling different local food like yakitori and grilled oysters and lobsters make eating on the beach even more fun.

When your body yearns for the sun, sea and waves this summer, you know where to go!

*** Published in the August 2016 issue of the Filipino Japanese Journal

The Sisterhood of the Traveling Book

Before I came to Japan, I gave this book to my best friend and told her to pass it to another person after it had helped her to reach a certain point where she felt ready to move on towards whatever career her heart sends her cartwheeling to. This book helped me a lot when I was struggling with my job. I was caught between pursuing the possibilities the world of fashion magazines could offer and a boring desk job in a government institution to draft bills and write speeches. I decided to stay in my government job while inside I know I am nurturing an artist who wanted to break free. I have no regrets. Never will have. Most people feel that as an artist, their craft is obliged  to pay the bills. No matter how good and noble it sounds, it doesn't simply happen to everybody. For varied reasons, a lot of writers kept their day jobs while pursuing their passions for their craft. Fyodor Dostoyevsky worked as an engineer while translating French literature. Arthur Conan Doyle passed the time between patients by writing stories. Being an artist is not simply about what you do, it's who you are amidst all the things you choose to do. 

Sisters forever.

After three years, I let go of the book to move on, not because I got fed up up with job, but because I wanted to grow more so that one day, I can go back, not exactly to that same job, but to something of the same nature - service to the nation and to the people. I am very happy I stayed with my job because it broaden my perspectives.

I then gave the book to my best friend. After a year, she gave it to one of our other best friends. And now, after two more years, she passed it to another best friend. Sometimes, the journey takes too long, longer than what we imagined, expected, or planned to be. Sometimes, it's not the changing of circumstances that spur you into moving on, sometimes what counts is a change of perspective. Seeing yourself and what you do in a whole new universe that you've only regarded as hell before.  I am very happy I chose to stay with my government job because it broadened my perspectives about law, life and love for what you do. I realized, I could be an artist and maybe something else. Being at peace with yourself is not a quick journey, it's a never ending journey but you surely get past major hurdles along the way. And one day, you'd just realize how far you've come. At that point, your craft might have improved, how you perceive your craft might have evolved, what kind of art you create might have even revolutionized, you as an artist might have significantly changed too. But in the end, you remain an artist. You live as an artist. You breathe life into your soul as an artist and you breathe life into others because you are an artist. You are a bringer of life. You are a creator of non-existent hopes. You are a spark of inspiration in a bright-lighted city where people can no longer distinguish between fireworks and short circuits. You are an artist. In your boring office. In your crowded school. In your crazy world. It's a part of yourself that no one can kill unless you decide to kill it yourself. 

"Glamping" Sites in Tokyo

Karaniwan nang ginagawa tuwing summer ang pagha-hiking, pagba-barbecue sa mga parks at pagsu-surf. Ang pagka-camping ay isa ring maaaring alternatibo para sa mga taong nais magrelax kasama ang kalikasanan. Pero para sa mga taong hindi pa handang iwanan ang alwan ng buhay sa siyudad, mas nababagay gawin ang “glamping” o “glamorous camping.” Hindi ito nalalayo sa konsepto ng pagka-camping, yun nga lang, mas pinadali nito ang outdoor activities dahil lahat ng mga bagay na kakailanganin ay handa na sa campgrounds at maaari na lamang rentahan tulad ng mga cabins na tulugan, at mga BBQ spots at cooking facilities, mayroon ding mga convenient stores at restaurants!

Mayroong halos 3,000 campsites sa buong Japan kung saan maaaring magtayo ng mga tent at magpalipas ng gabi. Marami sa mga ito ang mayroon ding mga bungalows at cabins na maaaring rentahan kung ayaw magpalipas ng gabi sa tent. Marami sa mga ito ay hindi madaling puntahan dahil hindi ito dinadaanan ng mga pampublikong transportasyon. Mas mainam kung magdadala ng sariling sasakyan. Ang sumusunod ay ilan sa mga “glamping” sites na hindi nalalayo sa Tokyo:

Jonanjima Seaside Park, Tokyo. Kung ayaw mong lumayo masyado sa Tokyo, ang Jonanjima Seaside Park ang pinakamalapit na campgrounds na maaari mong puntahan. Mayroon itong artificial beach, mga BBQ spots at skateboard area. Nagkakahalaga ng Y3000 ang daytrip at Y600 naman para sa unang gabi at Y300 sa mga susunod. Maganda rin itong lugar para sa mga mahilig magplane watching dahil makikita mula dito ang mga eroplanong lumilipad at bumababa sa di-kalayuang Haneda Airport. Dito rin dumadaan ang mga magagarbong cruise ships papuntang Tokyo Bay.

Nagatoro Autocamp-jo, Saitama. Mainam ang campsite na ito para sa mga first time campers.dahil mayroon nang mga equipment for rent sa campgrounds na ito. Mayroon silang mga bungalow kung ayaw mo magtent. May iba’t-ibang laki ang bungalow na maaaring maglaman ng 2 hanggang 40 katao. Mayroon ding maliit na kombini, mga vending machines at mga utensils na maaaring hiramin. Mayroon ding mga BBQ spots sa paligid ng campgrounds. Matatagpuan ang campgrounds sa tabi ng ilog kung saan maaaring mag-indulge sa mga water sports tulad ng kayaking at canoeing; maaari ring magfishing, at magbiking. Nagkakahalaga ng Y3,000 bawat sasakyan (hanggang 5 tao) plus Y500 para sa facility fee. Y1000 naman bawat tao kung hindi lalagpas sa 5 ang grupo. 

Ashinoko Camping Village, Kanagawa. Hindi lamang kumbinyenteng puntahan ang campgrounds na ito dahil maaari lang itong lakarin mula Togendai Station, nasa tabi rin ito ng Lake Ashinoko na bahagi ng Fuji-Hakone National Park. Mayroon silang mga 2-bedroom cabins, kitchen areas at terrace para sa pagba-BBQ. Tahimik din ang lugar na ito at mainam para sa mga gustong magrelax at magmuni-muni. mayroon din itong public bath na nagkakahalaga lang ng Y350. Kung nais magside trip, maaaari kayong sumakay ng Hakone Ropeway paakyat ng Owakudani, isang volcanic valley na kilala sa mga black eggs - mga itolg na iniluto sa pamamagitan ng init na nanggagaling sa bulkan. 

Japonica Lodge, Tokyo. Kung wala kang oras na lumayo sa Tokyo at gusto mo lang maexperience ang “tent life,” maaari kang magbook ng stay sa Japonica Lodge, isang guest house sa gitna ng Tokyo. Sa halagang Y2,500 ay maaari ka nang matulog sa loob ng tent! Sa halip na bunk beds, hinanay ng maayos ang mga tent sa loob ng kwarto ng guest house. Walang mga lamok at maiingay na insekto, may shared shower at toilet, wifi at lockers pa! Kung magustuhan mo ang mga tent ay maaari mong bilhin at iuwi ang mga ito. Gawa ng Japanese manufacturers ang mga tent na ito kaya siguradong matibay ang mga ito. 

Kung gusto mong panandaliang tumakas sa bilis ng takbo ng buhay sa Tokyo at magnature tripping, di na kailangang lumayo pa. Hindi na rin kailangang mag-alala, dahil “glamping” na ang uso.

*** Published in the August 2016 issue of the Pinoy Gazette

Paolo Coelho's The Winner Stands Alone

The tone of Paolo Coelho's novel, The Winner Stands Alone, is not much different from his other hit, The Alchemist. The novel follows the story of Igor as he goes to the Cannes Film Festival to reclaim the love of his life, Ewa, and the fortunes and misfortunes of several characters like Maureen, a filmmaker who thought she would finally get her big break; Jasmine a new model; and Gabriella who just got her first major role in a potential blockbuster movie.

Though the characters are interesting and the setting offers a lot of potential for exciting action, the narrative is monotonous and boring. Coelho narrates what the world of glits and glamor is like and blabber about all the evil there is in such a world. Though finding more about "this evil" would be very interesting for the readers, he failed to translate this interest from his own to the page. It sounded like a report of how people get their big breaks and what kind of difficulties they face in this world. 

Again, this novel is full of Christian metaphors and allusions that are not necessarily a turn off, but can make you feel bored, when hammered to you repeatedly. And yes, it's full of cliches. Instead of making us sympathize with the characters, it tires me to hear about all the rants that we already know. The main character, Igor, is a russian millionnaire who used to work as a soldier for the Russian cause and he knows several ways of killing someone using Russian martial arts, he knows where to get Curare a deadly poison from South America, and he knows the anatomy of  person and knows exactly where to hit someone with a knife to kill her and he is capable of acquiring a deadly powdery poison that is sealed in a special envelope... What else do I need to say? 

If you want an easy, quick read on a plane or in a coffee shop, this book is good for one sitting. But there's nothing in it that would make you feel excited either. 

Narratives of the Body at Roppongi Crossing 2016

     With new discourses come new perspectives. This is what the exhibition Roppongi Crossing 2016: My Body, My Voice is trying to convey with its wide selection of artworks from photographs to paintings, from music to videos, from machine-like installations to interactive games. The exhibition was first mounted in 2004 at the Mori Art Museum to showcase the works of contemporary Japanese artists, reflecting a vast range of creative techniques. This year, 20 artists selected by curators from Japan, Taiwan and South Korea, displayed their works depicting complex relationships between the body and the world around it as told in visual narratives that were distinct and personal. 

       Makoto Aida, one of the participants in the first Roppongi Crossing exhibition in 2004,  noted in a short interview conducted by the Mori Art Museum, that seeing this year’s exhibition gave him the impression that the works contained very personal elements. Participating artists this year tried to explain, through their chosen medium, their answers to the questions, “Who am I? How is my body connected to history and to other people?” Their interpretations of these questions and their corresponding answers reflected a process of looking at the self and projecting the self to the context – time, place, dynamics – of the world where it is placed. 

Katayama Mari, Courtesy of TRAUMARIS, TOKYO

Some artists focused on the relationship between the body and the creation of a distinct identity of the self. Katayama Mari, who had both of her legs amputated at the tender age of nine and has since used prosthetics, displayed her self portraits together with her dolls to represent how she reconciled the idea of who she is as a person and as an artist in relation to her body. Her photos in her room filled with dolls seemed to suggest the objectification of her body as parts of it are joined and rejoined. Through these self-portraits she depicted how the society sees her and with a lifesized doll with a mirror for a face, she depicted how she absorbs the things going on in the society around her.

Goto Yasuka showcased her paintings created with the use of Japanese ink depicting scenes during the Second World War, which she had reimagined based on the stories told by her relatives. Her paintings featured her grandfather who was drafted to war. The paintings showed him writing letters together with other soldiers before they were sent to different places for the war and riding a navy ship about to be deployed in a faraway camp. The very distinct expressions on the faces of the soldiers, which showed their emotions, personalities, worries and fears in the middle of the raging war, were very notable in of her art. One of the most notable pieces of this collection was the Aioi Bashi, which showed a panoramic painting showing her grandfather as a young boy who wanted to enlist in the army facing his adult self who was already drafted to war as a soldier and was facing the horrors of it. 

Yosegaki by Goto Yasuka,
Courtesy of The National Museum of Art Osaka

Hasegawa Ai presented photos showing the projected appearance of the would-be children of a real life same-sex couple if the technology of using Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells (iPSC) became possible and ethically recognized. This technology would allow the children to inherit the genes of both parents even if they are of the same sex. The installation featured photos of the couple with their children happily having breakfast and celebrating a birthday.  

       As this exhibition depicted new ways of presenting the body and the self in relation to time and place, new perspectives were brought into the center to instigate its audience to ponder on them. Aida Makoto referred to the exhibition as interesting because “it makes you realize what you don’t know.” Everyday identities are being invented and reinvented, relationships being established and demolished, and bodies move in a projection of time that transcends ideas and space. With this, reinterpretation of old discourses are strongly encouraged and the formulation of new narratives are more than welcome not only in art, but in everything else, where bodies can be used to communicate to others.

      This exhibition ran at the Mori Art Museum from March 26 to July 10, 2016 and was curated by Natsumi Araki of the Mori Art Museum, Sunjung Kim of the Art Sonje Center, Keisuke Ozawa of the Arts Initiative Tokyo, and Dar-Kuen Wu of the Taipei Artist Village. 

Photos: Grabbed from the website of the Mori Art Museum

1.Flyer/ promotional banner of Roppongi Crossing 2016 

2.you’re mine#001

2014

Katayama Mari

Lambda Print

104.8 X162 cm

Private Collection

Courtesy of: TRAUMARIS, Tokyo

3.Yosegaki 

2008

By Goto Yasuka

Oil, acrylic and Japanese ink on canvas

304 x 480 cm

Collection: The National Museum of Art, Osaka

*** Published in the August 2016 issue of the Filipino-Japanese Journal

Cafes in Takadanobaba: Miyama Cafe by Cafe Renoir

Miyama Cafe is situated in the basement of Takadanobaba Station near the Tozai Line. It is one of the cafes under the Ginza Renoir group. Cafe Renoir, which is the more popular of the chains, is quite expensive compared to other coffee shops in Tokyo. Another cafe called Doutor offers cheap coffees for half the price of a small cup in Cafe Renoir. Miyama Cafe like it's sister cafe operates within that price range. It caters to salarymen and office ladies who can pay a little more a cup of coffee. The coffee they serve does not disappoint though and the soft cushions make your afternoon tea time more comfortable. 

Thumbs up: It has solo booths that have a power plug under for people who want to study, work on their computer or read something for a couple of hours. The shop also has a free wife that customers can use for a maximum of three hours. 

Thumbs down: Because there is no division between the smoking and non-smoking areas, the smell of cigarette is floating all around the room. It can make you nauseous after a couple of hours of breathing in other people's second hand smoke. 

Recommendations: For those after non-caffeinated drinks, try Miyama's chai tea. 

Best Hiking Spots in Japan

*Published in Pinoy Gazette June 2016 issue

Bukod sa pagpunta sa mangilan-ngilang magagandang dalampasigan sa Japan, isa sa mga pinakakinagigiliwang gawin ng mga Hapon tuwing summer ay ang pag-akyat ng mga bundok. Hindi lamang mainam sa katawan ang pagha-hike, masaya rin itong bonding activity ng pamilya at barkada. 

Maraming mga bundok kung saan maaaring umakyat all year-round, mayroon din naman mga seasonal lamang tulad ng Mt. Fuji na maaari lamang akyatin tuwing July-August. Ang Mt. Fuji ay inaakyat ng halos 20,000 tao, kapwa turista at residente, bawat taon. Nakakamanghang makita na magkasamang umaakyat ang mga maliliit na bata at mga retiradong matatanda sa Mt. Fuji. Ang tatlo sa pinakamatataas na bundok sa Japan ay ang Mt. Fuji na may taas na 3776m at matatagpuan sa Shizuoka at Yamanashi, ang Kita-Dake (Minami Alps), may taas na 3192m, ay kilala sa tawag na “Shirane-san” na ang ibig sabihin ay three peaks (binubuo ng Kita-Dake, Aino-Dake at Notori-dake) at matatagpuan sa Nagano, Shizuoka at Yamanashi; at ang Hodaka-dake (Kita Alps) na may taas na 3190m at matatagpuan sa Gifu at Nagano. Kung hindi ka man ganoon kahanda para umakyat sa tatlong nabanggit na bundok, marami pa ring ibang bundok na maaaring akyatin ngayong summer. 

Mga Kilalang Hiking Spots bawat Rehiyon

Ang Daisetsuzan National Park ay tinatawag ring “Roof of Hokkaido” dahil matatagpuan dito ang pinakamatataas na bundok sa Hokkaido na binubuo ng Asahidake, Tokachidake, Shikaribetsu at Ishikari. Noong 1993, kinilala ito bilang pinakamalaking national park sa Japan na may lawak na 230,000 hectares. Hindi lamang magagandang tanawin ang makikita mula dito, matatagpuan ding naninirahan sa bundok ang iba’t-ibang uri ng hayop tulad ng ezo deer, blakiston’s fish owl at black woodpecker. Mag-ingat lamang dahil mayroon ding mga brown bear na nakatira dito.

Ang Shirakami Sanchi ay binubuo ng mahahabang bulubundukin sa pagitan ng Aomori at Akita. Naging UNESCO World Heritage Site ito noong 1993, isa sa mga pinakaunang nabigyan ng ganitong karangalan sa Japan. Isa sa mga pangunahing atraksyon nito ang three-tiered Anmon Falls. Bukod dito, naninirahan din sa makapal nitong kagubatan ang black bear, serow, golden eagle at 87 pang uri ng mga ibon. 

Kung sawa na sa pag-akyat sa Mt. Takao na isa sa pinakasikat na hiking site malapit sa Tokyo, maaaring alternatibo ang Mt. Mitake. May layo lamang na dalawang oras mula sa sentro ng Tokyo, mainam ito para sa mga gustong mag-unwind at makapiling ang kalikasan. Mula sa cable car station sa bundok, aabutin ng 20 minuto pa papaakat sa pinakatuktok kung saan naroon ang Musashi Mitake Shrine. Kung gusto mo namang higit pang i-challenge ang sarili, maaaring ituloy ang hike papuntang Mt. Hinode bago bumaba. 

Ang Kamikochi sa Nagano ay isa sa pinakakilalang hiking spots sa rehiyon. Tinatawag din itong “gateway to the alps.” Sinasabing isang Buddhist priest na nagngangalang Banryu ang unang umakyat dito noong sinaunang panahon kung saan ang pag-akyat sa mga bundok ay ginagawa bilang pagsamba sa kalikasan. Noong Meiji Period, mas naging katanggap-tanggap ang pag-akyat ng bundok bilang leisure activity dahil na rin sa impluwensiya ng mga banyaga. Higit na pinasikat ni Reverend Walter Weston, isang Ingles, ang Kamikochi nang ikwento niya sa kanyang librong “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alp” ang mga karanasan nya sa pag-akyat dito. 

Ang Mt. Koya sa Wakayama ay hindi lamang kilala bilang isang ordinaryong hiking site kung hindi isang iginagalang na pilgrimage site. Dito nakabase ang Shingon School of Buddhism kasama ang 100 pang ibang templo at monastery. Maaari ring manuluyan at magpalipas ng gabi sa mga Buddhist temples dito na tinatawag na shukubo. Huwag ding palagpasing bisitahin ang Okunoin Cemetery kung saan nakahimlay si Kobo Daishi, kilala rin sa tawag na Kukai, na siyang nagtatag sa Shingon School of Buddhism.

Ang Kankakei Gorge ay tinatayang isa sa pinakamagagandang gorge sa buong Japan. Matatagpuan ito sa Shodoshima Island, pangalawa sa pinakamalaking isla sa Seto Inland Sea, sa Shikoku. Mayroong dalawang trail na maaaring pagpilian paakyat ng bundok pero mayroon ding ropeway na magdadala sayo direkta sa tuktok. Bukod sa Kankakei Gorge marami pang ibang lugar sa isla ang maaaring bisitahin tulad ng Twenty-Four Eyes Village, lokasyon ng nobela ni Sakae Tsuboi na ginawang pelikula noong 1954 at 1987, at ang Sakate Port, isa lamang sa 7 ports sa paligid ng isla, kung saan maaaring kumain ng fresh seafood habang pinagmamasdan ang ganda ng dagat.

Ang Yakushima sa Kagoshima sa isla ng Kyushu ay kinilala noong 1993 bilang UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kilala ito sa mga puno ng yakusugi, mga ancient cedar trees na sinasabing naging inspirasyon sa anime na Princess Mononoke na ginawa ni Hayao Miyazaki. Isa sa pangunahing atraksyon dito ang Jumonsugi, tinatayang pinakamatandang puno ng cedar sa buong mundo, na may edad na 7,000 taon!

Iba-iba man ang dahilan ng pagha-hike, mapa-leisure man kasama ang pamilya, pilgrimage man o self-searching, maraming trail na pagpipilian sa iba’t-ibang kabundukan sa Japan. Tandaan lamang: pag-aralan ng maigi ang mapa, basahing mabuti ang mga trail signs, magsuot ng angkop na sapatos at damit at magdala ng hiking gadgets na makakatulong sa pag-akyat!

Reinventing ‘A Piece of Cloth’: The Works of Issey Miyake

*Published in the July 2016 issue of the Filipino-Japanese Journal

“The act of design and its process are synonymous with excitement and joy.” 

–Issey Miyake

Japanese designer Issey Miyake is well-known for his out-of-the-box ideas translated into avante-garde collections created all through out his almost 50-year old career (and still counting). And as what these collections reflect, every piece of cloth has a story. These stories are brilliantly told in a recent display of his creations titled, “Miyake Issey Exhibition: The Work of Miyake Issey” held at The National Art Center, Tokyo from March 16 – June 13, 2016. 

Official poster of the exhibition

Issey Miyake went to Paris in 1965 to continue honing his skills in the field. In 1968, he witnessed the May ‘68 protests where young people expressed their sentiments against authoritarianism. This experience inspired him to “create clothing like jeans and t-shrits that can be worn by everyone.” This is when he started expoloring the relationship between “a piece of cloth”, the body and the space between them. Combining his love for research, his enthusiasm for experimenting on the use of new materials and his good grasp of Japanese traditional craftsmanship, he was able to develop a kind of signature style that is distinctively his own. Miyake explains his vision by saying that, “Every day, I imagine something new, create something that has never existed, and build a new reality.” But despite the spontaneous flow of diverse creative ideas, his basic principle remains the same, making clothes from “a piece of cloth.”

The exhibition, divided in three sections, showed how Miyake’s experiementation with clothes has progressed through the years. The spaces in Sections A and B were designed by TokujinYoshioka. Section A exhibited Miyake’s earlier works. He has continually sought new methods and technologies for making clothes since he established the Miyake Design Studio in 1970. Because of his forward-looking mindset, Miyake refuses to be bound by convention. Although he uses Japanese traditional crafts and materials as a starting point, he adds his own style by recreating the clothes into something more contemporary. Miyake and his team experiment with ways to turn their ideas into realities and then deliver the finished, tangible pieces to people who can fully utilize them. Some notable pieces in this section were the Shohana Momen, made from a frabric traditionally used to line men’s kimonos; Sashiko,  made from a quilted-fabric used for Judo uniforms and farmers’ work clothes; and Tanzen, a kimono-style coat with a tie-belt. 

In Section B, Miyake’s clothes were displayed on “Grid Bodies” that were specifically designed by Yoshioka for this exhibition. Because of Miyake’s vision to connect the cloth and the body, he created a body series from 1980-1984 that showcased materials that are uncommonly used for clothes like plastic and rattan shaped into wearable pieces. In 1980, Miyake displayed a new collection called Plastic Body for the Autumn/Winter collection. The pieces were made using fiber-reinforced plastic on a mold of a human torso. Two years after, he showcased Rattan Body for his Spring/Summer collection. Using the techniques of Shochikudo Kosuge, a Japanese artist from Hayama, Miyake sculpted rattan and bamboo materials into wearable forms, creating a contemporary interpretation of a Japanese samurai armor. This collection was also featured on the cover of an American art magazine, Art Forum, in February 1982. Needless to say, it is a notable achievement for a piece of clothing to be featured in an art magazine. Wire Body and Waterfal Body were released in Autumn/Winter 1983 and Autumn/Winter 1984 respectively.

The space in Section C, designed by Taku Satoh, was meant not only as a display space but also as an interactive space where visitors could try folding clothes with complex structures and watch demonstrations. This section exhibited five of the most innovative aspects of Miyake’s work. Right next to the entrance to this section, a row of Olympic Team uniforms were displayed. In the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, Miyake was commissioned to design the uniforms of the athletes from Lithuania. From this experience, Miyake thought of showcasing the designs of ten more teams for his 1993 Spring/Summer collection. The Materials area showcased the different materials that Miyake used for making clothes like polyster, horsehair, ramie, rayon and silk. In the IKKO TANAKA-ISSEY MIYAKE area, pleated kimonos printed with basic shapes like circles and triangles neatly arranged to form an image of a Japanese woman’s face were on display. Dresses in the A-POC section were said to have  been created from a single piece of thread in a single process. Also exhibited in the Pleats area was the pleats machine used by Miyake in making his pleats designs. A special demonstration was held every morning during the exhibition. When making pleats, Miyake makes the clothes first and then feeds them through a heated pleating machine, contrary to the usual practice of creating pleating first and then turning the pleated fabrics into clothes. Miyake’s 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE/IN-EI ISSEY MIYAKE collection showcased dresses with complex folding structures. 

In the last part of the exhibiton, there were also some short films about Miyake that were shown to the audience. First, there was a motion graphic called “Making Things” created by Yugo Nakamura and music composed by Cornelius. Other works shown were: The Work of Issey Miyake 1960-2015 directed by Shinya Nakajima; Beyond Time and Space directed by Yuriko Takagi; Visual Dialogue directed by Irving Penn; Waterfall Body and Kamiko directed and edited by Yu Yamanaka.

Miyake believes that clothing should not only enrich people’s lives but also bring joy to anyone who is wearing them – something that Miyake has done and has continued to do all these years. From a piece of cloth, he was able to visualize and revitalize a new clothing revolution that, as he says, “turns ideas into realities.”

Learn to Bake in Tokyo!

Raspberry Fromage

How about learning how to bake? Well, I recently thought about that. I thought I need to learn some new skills while I am enjoying my life in Tokyo. I am not really very good with domestic tasks, i.e. tasks at home, so I thought I might as well try my hands on something I view as a challenge. I decided to take baking classes at ABC Cooking Studio with a friend. We only took three classes to test the waters before fully committing to the whole course. 

We first took a free trial class where we made Ham and Cheese Bread and Chocolate Chip Rolls. This trial class was free for us because of a campaign for the opening of this particular branch. But on regular days, I think a trial class only costs Y500. At the trial class, you would be asked to "share the experience" with someone, meaning, you have to share cooking utensils and alternate with another person in doing the exercises since only one set of utensils and ingredients are set before you. But no worries, because the amount of ingredients you have will be enough for two persons! You can take home at least four pieces of yummy bread after! While waiting for the bread to cook, the staff would offer you their packages. This studio also offers dessert making classes and traditional Japanese cooking classes. Take your time thinking about which package to choose. Do not feel pressured with the staff who would constantly keep on coming back to ask you if you had already made your decision. If you are really not up for it and would really just want to try the trial, I think it fine. Just clearly and politely tell the staff about your decision.

After enrolling to the class, you can choose the schedule of your classes. Usually, there is a set period for you to complete your classes. For our three classes, I think we had three months to schedule and finish the three classes. They have time slots for each branch and you can choose the most convenient for you. You can reschedule your class if something has came up but you should double check the rules they have for rescheduling - the change should be done before 11am of the day prior to your chosen schedule. 

Each class lasts for two hours. You will have a lot of down time in the middle of the class because you have to wait for the dough to rise or wait while the oven preheats. You can drink some beverages for free while waiting. I recommend taking a class with a friend. It is more fun when you have someone to laugh with during crazy kitchen moments and you will have someone to ask when you do not understand the teacher's instructions. The teachers are very nice and they would try to help you as much as they can. Knowing that my friend and I do not speak Japanese fluently, our teacher used very simple Japanese to communicate with us. She would also reiterate instructions when we appeared clueless or demonstrate a technique for us to understand. Not all teachers though are like that, I must say. Some of them tend to hurry in the lesson because several classes are scheduled one after the other so there should be no time for over time! If you already find a teacher with whom you have a good rapport, you can schedule your class with that teacher for the rest of your classes. 

Taking classes at ABC Cooking Studio is a cheap and fun way to develop new skills!

DISCLAIMER: This is not a sponsored post. I was not commissioned to write reviews or post any promotional content for the studio. I am merely sharing my experiences as a happy camper. 

Asian Dishes at Roppongi Hills: Green Asia

Nasi Goreng with Red Curry

If you're up for Asian dishes like Thai curry, Nasi Goreng or Tom Yum, this is a perfect place for lunch. Situated on Hill Side B1 of Roppongi Hills, this place not only serves good food but also provides a good view of the Tokyo Tower. The veranda is also open if you want to feel the warm Summer breeze while consuming your curry. Average cost of food is Y2,000 but they also have equally tasty lunch menus that is a little more affordable. 

A good view of the Tokyo Tower from Green Asia