Tochigi in Winter: Kinugawa Onsen

Kinugawa in Tochigi Prefecture is a place famous for onsen resorts. Being only two and a half hours away from Tokyo by train, it is a convenient place to spend a day or two. You can check the different discounted passes that Tobu Railways offers such as the two-day nikko pass, which allows you to travel back and forth Tokyo via Tobu Railways for a discounted fare; Kinugawa Theme Park Pass, which includes a round trip train fare from Asakusa to Tobu Nikko or Kinugawa Onsen Station and entrance tickets to either or both Edo Wonderland and Tobu World Square; and the All Nikko Pass, which allows you four days of unlimited train and bus travels around the area.

After my friend went back to Tokyo, I decided to stay in Nikko for one more night. I booked a tatami room in Hotel New Ohruri. The building looked quite old but the room was clean and complete with amenities. Plus, it has a great view of the Kinugawa River. All 154 rooms (I think) are facing the river so every guest has the opportunity to enjoy the view. From my room on the 7th floor, I could see the snowy mountains and the crystal blue waters below.

View of the hotel from the bridge.

The hotel is a 10-minute walk from Kinugawa Onsen Station. It is not very difficult to find. After exiting the station, turn left and go straight ahead until you reach an intersection with a stoplight. You will see a gasoline station on your right. Turn right in this intersection and walk down the road. You will see a large bridge over the Kinugawa River. The hotel is on the left side. You can see it beautifully perched on an elevated side of the mountain.

View from my window

My room only costs around Y7,600 per night. It is a traditional tatami room that is good for 3 people. If you are traveling with friends, it will be a lot cheaper because you can split the bill. The room costs include buffet dinner and breakfast and free use of the rotenburo (open hair hot bath) and the large bath (indoor bath).

Upon check-in, there was already hot water boiling in my thermos so I decided to rest, relax and take a sip of my hot green tea. The hotel also gave me a piece of manju to match my green tea. The room also had an old fridge, a small television and a vault where you can put your valuables although theft is very rare in Japan. And as expected from a Japanese hotel, the room was very clean. There were slippers at the door that you can use as you enter the tatami room. Do not walk around the room wearing your shoes because they would ruin the tatami floors.

welcome drinks and manju

traditional japanese tatami room

Buffet dinner is served from 5:30-6:30 at the mess hall on the 4th floor of the building. As soon as I saw the food, I realized that there was not so much selection to choose from so I decided to get a lot of each kind - sashimi, breaded chicken, salad. There were also different kinds of beverages to choose from like red and white wine, of course beer, and also an assortment of fruit juices. I sat on a vacant table closest to the buffet table. However, as soon as I put down my tray, a staff, who, surprisingly, is from a Southeast Asian country like me, came to me and asked my room number. She told me that there was a table assigned for me so got up and followed her. As soon as I reach my rserved table, hoorah, I was surprised to find a nabe pot and a salmon plateb waiting for me! My full name was even posted on a wooden stand on top of the table!

Buffet dinner with a surprise nabe pot and salmon plate!

Upon check-in, I reserved the rotenburo at 10pm. You can reserve it at the front desk on the 5th floor where you will also get and return the key before and after using it. You can use the open bath for 30 minutes to your heart's delight. When I first entered the rotenburo, I was a little scared because I was all alone and I was afraid that someone might come in by mistake or whatever. But I was immediately relaxed the moment I dipped in the hot bath. You could see the stars in the sky and spot some familiar constellations like the orion.

After my quick yet relaxing dip in the bath, I went back to my room and watched some Japanese TV shows. I chanced upon SMAPXSMAP and Busaiku at Fuji TV.

I thought that the futon would be quite cold but, I was suprised that it was actually warm. As soon as I slipped in between the sheets, I drifted to Never Never Land. I woke up at around 8am the following morning. I heard the announcement that breakfast is only served until 8:30am so I hurried down the mess hall. Again, the selection of food was not a lot but having miso soup in the morning is more than enough for me - the warm miso soup tasted even better in a cold winter morning.

Breakfast by the river.

After breakfast, I decided to go for a quick shower and a dip at the large bath. There were no people in the bath anymore so I didn't have to be embarrassed about stripping naked in front of other people. The bath was clean and it had a good supply of beauty products like shampoo and conditioner, facial wash, facial cream for peeling, moisturizer, and a lot of other stuff I couldn't read the labels of. After a relaxing bath, I hurried to my room and checked out a few minutes before 9:30am.

I would recommend this hotel to people who want to relax and find solitude for a day or two away from the hustles and bustles of Tokyo. If you are an adventurous young traveler who wants to meet other young travelers, this is not a place for you since most of the people staying here are grandmas and grandpas. This is actually one of the reasons why I like the place - is very quiet and laid back. It's like a haven far from the city where no one knows you and you know no one as well. The selection of food is not very wide, some food are even quite cold (probably because food easily turns cold in winter and they don't really heat it ever so often) but the nabe is quite a good surprise! If you are after the rotenburo and the large bath, this place is a convenient place to be.